Pet Rabbit Care and Resources
Baby Bunny Care Sheet
If you’re thinking about a baby bunny, start here by clicking the link above! This is a quick care sheet for families taking home a younger rabbit. This will get you through the first few days with your new pet and can be used a reference guide for health, feeding, schedule, home set up, and early litter box training.
Home Life
The best life for a rabbit is one where they have a territory where they feel safe and an extended play space that they can run and hop around in. This looks different for everyone. It can consist of a cage, hutch, large dog crate, an exercise pen or any combination of these elements. There are many rabbit owners who decide to “free range” their pets and litter box train them. Rabbits are intelligent creatures and get bored when confined to a small space. If you have an open set up make sure to give your buns tunnels or caves to hide in. These can be as simple as refashioned cardboard boxes or fancy store bought rabbit homes. They love to sleep in their “burrows” or hide if something startles them.
Consider homing your new pet in an area of the home that is used often. When rabbits are kept in a bedroom, they may get lonely or will never get used to a lot of noise and interaction. They are most active in the morning and during dinnertime so our favorite location is near the kitchen or dining room.
If you would like to go with a traditional cage design, make sure you get one big enough for a large litter box and extra room to hop around. This cage is great because it’s roomy, it rolls on wheels, and comes with the play yard. It’s available in this larger size and a smaller size as well. The bars of the playpen are small enough that a young bunny cannot slip through.
The Traditional Flat - $210
The high sides contain the mess and the box is nice enough to leave out in the open. Just add your favorite litter and you are ready to go, or at least your rabbit will be.
High Side Litter Box - $19
This hutch is compact but fantastic “hide” or “cave” for a rabbit who will always be able to come out into a play yard or free roam in your home. We love the neutral wood which is both beautiful and safe. The bottom tray pulls out for easy cleaning and there is a rabbit cave built in.
The Studio Apartment - $125
The Bunny Condo - $230
Upgrade your rabbit’s condo with another story and more room of their own.
An open air, floor living experience for bun. This works really well for families planning to have a free range rabbit. Its easy to just open their gate and let them roam around. Decorate their home with accessories from makers like Nancy and the Baskets.
Read the full guide about this Bunny Home Set Up.
Litter Training and Rabbit Poop
Litter box training and “free ranging” is possible for indoor rabbits and there are many resources (and opinions!) available for learning about this. Large, shallow cat litter boxes make a great boxes for rabbits, but the truth is that they can learn to use a variety of shapes and sizes as a litter box. I find that the litter boxes they sell as “rabbit litter boxes” or “corner litter boxes” are really too small, even for a dwarf rabbit. My favorite thing to use is a large shallow plastic storage bin without the lid. We place their hay and food bowl inside the litter box because they generally go while they are munching.
I know this is going to sound gross, but rabbit poop is GOLD for your garden. It’s why we originally got rabbits for our homestead. Throw it in your compost or directly in your garden beds. It’s a clean fertilizer since rabbits are vegetarian. Poop can also tell you a lot about your rabbit’s health and should be monitored for changes. Here’s a visual Guide to Bunny Poops.
To encourage them to hang out in their box, make sure to place their hay feeder inside of it. Usually rabbits want the hay on their level and many owners will line the side of the box with hay. Not all rabbits are as tidy as you would be while eating though! If they are wasting the hay by pushing it around and soiling it, try one of these washable hay baskets by Nancy and the Baskets.
When picking litter for your rabbit’s cage or litter box, there are many options. We use a few inches of pine cat litter pellets as it is absorbent, lasts a few days, and composts very quickly. You could also use kiln dried pine or aspen shavings, ground walnut shells, or wheat pellets (often sold as cat litter.) Avoid anything containing cedar as it is unhealthy for rabbits. Using hay or straw does not work well and smells pretty awful soon after getting wet.
Rabbit Proofing
If your bunny will have free reign in the house/apartment/room, you will absolutely want to bunny proof the area. Even if you keep the bunny in a cage or pen, you still will need to safeguard your home when you let the rabbit out for supervised exercise. Rabbits are very curious and persistent creatures. They will find a way to get into your computer cables, charging cords, wires, and houseplants. Some rabbits will even go further than this (larger breeds can be more destructive) and nibble on baseboards, wooden furniture legs, and dig up carpeting. Block off areas that could be dangerous, install simple cord protectors, and move house plants out of reach.
Socialization
In the wild, rabbits are social animals, a trait that has stayed with them during the domestication process. Companionship is important to their welfare. If they are kept as a single rabbit, they will want to have a lot of interaction with their human family. We suggest homing them near the dining room, living room, or kitchen where they will have a lot to observe and become a part of your family routine. Another option is to keep them in pairs or groups. They cuddle, play together, groom each other, and create very strong bonds. There are instances where rabbits bond to other pets in the home, such as a cat or dog, and this could be a fantastic option, but of course doesn’t always work out perfectly. No matter what your situation, I want to stress the importance of social interaction in a healthy rabbit’s life.
Rabbit Pairing Options to Consider:
-Two males kept together will most likely need to eventually be neutered due to hormones making them more aggressive (only with other male rabbits!), but once this is done they can bond for life. Consider the cost of neutering two rabbits if planning on adopting two males.
-Two or three females will generally bond easily, especially if they were housed together while young. They may go through fussy, mean-girl, moments during puberty just like humans, but these phases generally pass within a couple of days. If you notice your girls not being nice to one another separate for a few hours to days. This will pass. They don’t generally need to be spayed in order to get along but there are other health reasons to consider spaying. Read more below under Health.
-A male and female pairing works excellently as long as your male is neutered. I’m sure this doesn’t need to be said, but an unaltered male and female rabbit will waste no time in making more rabbits to live with you. This can happen as early as 10 weeks! Be aware that even after neutering, you must still keep your rabbits separated for a period of time while his sperm is still viable. Ask your vet for the best advice concerning this.
Rabbit Language
Besides providing basic care for your rabbit, the most important thing you can do is learn to understand your individual rabbit’s social and emotional needs. Being able to understand your rabbits body language and how they feel can be a huge part of building a healthy relationship. I love this article about rabbit behavior by My House Rabbit. And definitely check out this one about creating a positive bond with your rabbit.
Rabbits + Cats + Dogs = ?
Socializing with other types of pets, namely dogs and cats, is a question that comes up a lot for new rabbit owners. Every situation will be different as every animal has a different personality and set of experiences but we’ve written a Guide for the First Introduction with a dog or cat. Our rabbits have been raised around our small dog, Leon, and have absolutely no fear of him at all as he is very often in their space and loves to “clean” them. I find that most of the time pets settle down after the first couple of weeks and it will be like your new rabbit was always a part of the family.
Nutrition
Before we talk about food, we should make a quick note about water. Access to fresh water is vital. And this is especially important for baby bunnies as dehydration can quickly become an urgent issue. Signs of dehydration would be lethargy and not eating hay or pellet food. We use bowls for water instead of water bottles. Rabbits will always drink more from a bowl and we would suggest the same for all families with rabbits. A water bottle as a back up is okay, but if adopting from us, remember that the rabbit will not know how to use it!
A baby rabbit diet will consist of unlimited pellets and hay until about 3 months old. Then it is advisable to reduce their pellet intake to about 1/8-1/4 cup twice a day so that they develop good habits in eating mostly hay. Unlimited hay is always provided at every age. You may start to slowly introduce leafy greens around three months, and then vegetables in small amounts as they adjust to the new fresh foods. An adult Netherland Dwarf’s daily intake will consist of about a cup of leafy greens, 2 tablespoons of veggies, 1/8 cup of pellets, and unlimited hay. We feed ours twice a day; first thing in the morning, and again around dinnertime splitting these portions in half. In between meals, they will nibble on high fiber hay which is essential for their digestion. Read more about nutrition on our blog.
We suggest feeding Oxbow brand rabbit pellets. It is easily available and uses high quality ingredients. For rabbits over a year old, there is an Organic Bounty Adult Rabbit Food option. For young rabbits, from 8 weeks to about a year old, you should use Garden Select Young Rabbit Food.
Oxbow Brand Food
Hay
Rabbits eat A LOT of hay but there are big differences in types, quality, and nutrient values of hay. Yes, you are going to get to know more about hay than you ever imagined. We use Oxbow brand and have been very happy with the consistent quality and freshness. You may feed your rabbit a variety of hays including Organic Meadow Hay, Oat Hay, Botanical Hay, Orchard Grass, and Western Timothy Hay. Alfalfa Hay is good for rabbits under 7 months old, but should be avoided for older rabbits due to being high in fat and not as high in fiber.
To learn more about why there are different types of hay check out our blog article about Netherland Dwarf Nutrition.
This Timothy Hay and Orchard Grass blend is a great starting point for your first rabbit. It is great for both young and adult rabbits, and it is always good to offer a variety of hays to avoid a picky eater in the future.
Our favorite hay supplier is Oxbow brand.
These baskets, by Nancy and the Baskets, are the best way to offer hay right at your rabbit’s level while keeping it tidy. Just attach it to the side of a litter box or cage bars and reduce wasting hay while your rabbit is happily litter training at the same time. If it get soiled, just pop it in the washer and dryer.
Washable Hay Basket - $20
My ingenious mother, Nancy, invented these crochet hay baskets for our bunnies. We noticed that the rabbits would eat more hay if we put it down on their level in the litter box, but didn’t love that it also wasted a lot of hay. Mom’s baskets solved our problem. It clips to the side of a cage or litterbox and keeps the hay tidy. If the baskets get dirty, we just pop them in the washer and dryer! Check out her Etsy shop, Nancy and the Baskets.
Treats
Treats can consist of small amounts of fresh fruit, edible flower heads, or baked rabbit cookies. If you’re feeling like spoiling your buns, you can find home-made treats from small makers. Check out our article “The Absolute Best Rabbit Treats in the World.”
Or if you like to bake, you can make some fresh treats with these handy recipes. Homemade Rabbit Treats with berries, or try these D.I.Y. Healthy Bunny Treats made out of fun things like rose petals, apples, carrots, and banana.
Exercise and Enrichment
Rabbits need a couple hours of exercise a day. This can be as easy as setting up a playpen inside your home or “free ranging” your rabbit. There are a ton of fun things you can set up in your home to give your rabbit places to jump, hide, and play. You could buy toys and chews from pet stores but they will love sticks from outside and tunnels made of cardboard just as much! And if you cannot resist spoiling your rabbit, check out some of our favorite accessories and toys below.
You might recognize this castle from some of our videos. What can we say? The buns love it, we love it, everyone is happy.
The best rabbit bed on the market is still made by hand in Richmond VA, the HopnFlop. Go for the Extra Snug size if you’re shopping for a nethie. They also offer upgrades such as a waterproof and absorbent interior living, non-slip base, or extra fabric covers for your buns favorite bed.
HopnFlop Rabbit Bed - $35
Typical metal folding pens are versatile enough to create all kinds of rabbit spaces and attach to existing cages. They are foldable making them easy to move inside and out. We love this one in a neutral white.
White Metal Play Pen - $78
Possibly our favorite thing in the world after our bunnies. It’s so cute I cannot even look at this picture without wanting more teepees, and more bunnies…
Pom Pom Bunny Teepee - $85+
Our favorite bunny toy list from Amazon:
Cutest Woven Bet Bed - $17
Grass House - $24
Woven Toy Balls - $9
Timothy Grass Balls - $14
Neutral Stacking Cups - $15
Grass Tunnel - $18
Outdoor Time
There are many ideas out there about creating outdoor rabbit gardens as well. In NC there will be extra care associated with rabbits that stay outside in the summer because it gets so extremely hot. This means fans, frozen water bottles, or even underground burrow access to keep them cool.
Ideas for Rabbit Enrichment.
Tips for Keeping Rabbits Cool in the Summer.
Travel
Buns are fantastic travel companions! They don’t get carsick (rabbits literally NEVER vomit) or bark at other buns at restaurants. They are curious creatures and can easily get used to being on the go, just like other pets. Take it slow at first, starting with short trips and working up to longer time away from home. Remember to bring fresh water and hay!
Keep your bun cozy and safe in the car with their very own booster seat. We place a folded towel inside to line the bottom and attach a hay basket to one side so the buns can eat on the go.
PetSafe Pet Booster Seat - $50
Replace your traditional carrier with a pet backpack! It’s ventilated and roomy to keep your bun comfortable. They can look out on the world from above while you’re on the go. Remember to pack some hay in there with your bun to keep them nibbling.
We won’t tell this kitty that buns look cuter in a backpack…but they do!
Catism Pet Backpack -$30
Are you ready to be the crazy bunny parent? I’m already there, so don’t expect me to talk you off the ledge! This stroller is beautiful and functional. You can take your bun anywhere!
Need a workout buddy to get your steps in? Boom! Bun is there for you!
Need some bunny therapy while you’re out at dinner with the fam? Bun is waiting patiently for pets and cuddles.
Hate going to the mall? Shopping is better with bun!
Need an excuse to spend more money on bun? Everyone needs a carrier to get the the vet! you might as well just go all the way.
Sorry, I warned you. Now you want one too.
BestPet Stroller - $50
Miu Pet Water Bottle - $13
Remember to travel with fresh water for your bun. This water bottle makes life super easy on the go.
Grooming
Nails
You can clip a rabbit’s nails with a cat nail clipper or simply file them down with a normal nail file. My pro tip is to use a mesh laundry bag (usually used for washing delicates) to burrito your bunny in while you clip their nails. The nails stick out of the mesh making them much easier to see under all that foot fur! You can also use normal nail files on their nails, especially if they are very young with tiny, thin nails.
Fur
Grooming a rabbit with short hair is pretty low maintenance. When they are molting you may wish to help them remove some of the extra fur so it does not get caught up in their digestive track. (Rabbits cannot throw up so they don’t have hairballs like cats.) Long haired or wooly rabbits will need a weekly brushing to prevent matting. Rabbits are usually great at cleaning themselves. If the have gotten into a mess, you can usually leave them in a clean space for a couple hours and they will go to work getting fresh for you.
It is not advisable to give a rabbit a bath as it can be dangerous for them. They may go into shock or not be able to temperature regulate afterwards. But if you notice buildup happening around their bum, it might be time for a gentle cleaning. This may happen from a cage that needs to be cleaned more often, diarrhea from stress, or introducing new foods too quickly. Solve any health concerns first and instead of giving them a full bath try using a warm cloth or unscented baby wipe to clear away the debris. If it needs a bit more cleaning than a cloth will provide, fill a sink with a shallow amount of warm water and dip only their bum into the water, cleaning gently with your hands or a towel to loosen the clumps. They won’t like the bum bath, but it will save them from skin irritation and infection that can happen if the buildup starts to mat. We use all natural human shampoo and conditioner and make sure to brush or cut out any mats that have formed.
Cute Round Slicker Brush - $12
Are we just suckers for anything that fits into our neutral color pallet? Yes. But this slicker brush is cute AND it works!
It has nicely rounded tips so it feels good to the rabbit, is made of strong metal, and has a grippy silicone part that grabs loose fur.
Hairbuster Comb - $20
I know this isn’t really for grooming your rabbit…but after grooming your rabbit, you may need to groom your clothes, and your couch. This little tool is going to be your new best friend during molting season.
Healthcare
Vaccines
There are no required vaccinations for rabbits living in this area for the time being because the vaccines available treat diseases that do not exist here yet. That being said, you should research a good rabbit vet in your area in case of future need. A note for the future: a virus called RHDV2 has arrived on the west coast and will eventually make its way here. Fortunately, there is a vaccine available for the disease but supply is being sent where the infections are spreading so it is not available in NC yet.
Vets Local to NC That Treat Rabbits.
Spay or Neuter
We do not spay or neuter our pet rabbits before we adopt them out to their new families for a few reasons. Firstly, they cannot be fixed until they are 5-6 months old. That means the rabbits would not be able to go to new homes until much later in life, after they are full grown, but I believe that younger rabbits are more flexible and will get used to new situations faster. It is also very expensive in our area and would increase the adoption fee dramatically.
There are both benefits and risks to consider when thinking about spay or neuter and you should consider the added cost of the operation when you adopt a pet rabbit. If you are going to litter train your rabbit indoors, fixing them may potentially help the process. There are also many health benefits associated with spaying females because there is a very high incidence of cancer in the female reproductive organs. The risk involved is with the actual surgery and the anesthesia. Not every rabbit reacts the same way and it can be a dangerous operation that they do not survive.
Read more about why to spay and neuter your rabbits.
There are a few local vets that I have used to neuter and spay rabbits. I will list the details and approximate pricing below. Please make sure to inquire about extra costs when you make your appointment as there may be extra charges for services and medications.
Animal Kingdom Veterinary Hospital in Cary NC - Neuter $244, Spay $278, Add on Laser Option +$55 per rabbit, Add on Pre-screen Option +$32 per rabbit
Avian and Exotic in Raleigh NC - Neuter $325, Spay $500, General Health Check - around $60, Blood Work - $100
Willow Oak Veterinary Hospital in Durham NC - Neuter $300-325, Spay $350-400
Sheets Pet Clinic in Greensboro NC - Spay and Neuter $80-90 (plus added costs)
Rolesville Veterinary Hospital in Rolesville NC - Neuter $160, Spay $180
Pittsboro Animal Hospital (spay and neuter only) - Approximately $110
There is more in depth information on our blog about maintaining the health of your rabbit, how to treat minor health conditions, and when to go to the vet.
Have you found any helpful resources that you think we should be sharing? Email us or message us on Instagram @breadboxfarm
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